Why Not Tour

With only one night in the Savuti camp we were keen to make the most of our stay and so before dawn broke, the boys were busy breaking camp to allow for a morning game drive around before heading off to Moremi Game Reserve. That said it did take a little longer to raise the troops after some unexpected visitors that night. Our tent had unfortunately fallen victim to two honey badgers who had surgically cut two holes in the side of the tent and helped themselves to whatever delights they could find inside. Fortunately we did hear the clank of pots as they stumbled around in earnest and so it wasn’t long before four brave souls squared off against two honey badgers. Needless to say they took what they wanted and we were not game to test their sharp claws and teeth any further.

With all four bundled into the car we headed off on our morning game drive, keen to find the elusive zebra which had only days before been so abundant in the area.  To do this we decided to head off towards the Savuti Marshes and find some forgotten tracks, as it was here that we would surely find gold. BAD IDEA, we found the forgotten tracks and soon after found ourselves very lost as the tracks very quickly turned into game trails and then deep mapane forest. One could have quite easily back tracked on the route we had just come in on, but in true “Why Not” fashion we decided to bundubash and make a beeline for the closest main road. How hard could it be? The GPS showed us as only 1 km from the road, but an hour later, only 500 metres made and both myself and Jason now having to open a path up in front of us one could quite easily say we had again made the wrong decision. But this is what we had come to see and although it wasn’t the most testing of 4×4 driving we where deep in the wilds of Botswana with every chance that a pride of lions was following close behind.

Having finally made it out of the Mapane forest and found our not so main road, we thought it best to point our nose towards the West, as we had lost a lot of time that morning and still had a long way until our next campsite. Although we had still not found the large herds of Zebra the drive out was spectacular and we were treated to a few more sightings of the large elephant bulls of the Savuti.

Having checked out of the south east gate of the Chobe National Park we were not far from Moremi, a game reserve that spreads out into the heart of the Okavango Delta and with one of the highest floods had in years we were sure to encounter a lot of water. In this instance we were not mistaken and before we even made the gate we had to negotiate four river crossing and a very rickety bridge that was apparently only rated to 5 tons. At 4.5 fully loaded these were nervous times, but kudos must be given to Spermy who drove brilliantly through some of his first ever water courses.

With only two hours of daylight left we decided to take the advice given at the gate and not take the most direct route to our camp. Although we would have loved to test our car even further apparently with the floods being so high this route had been impassable for some time. This did however mean we would not make camp by sunset but also gave us the option of driving at night (not allowed in Botswana Game Reserves) and so possibly sighting our first leopard.  Unfortunately, luck was not on our side and we limped into camp with no wood and some very hungry bellies.

The next morning we woke up a little later than usual and decided to treat ourselves to a cooked breaky of Bacon , Eggs, Baked Beans and South African Boerewors. With bulging tummies we headed off to Third Bridge, an area of the park which is a little more open and where lion had been spotted recently.  Although we again struggled to find the ever elusive cats, we were treated to many different species of plains games and in particular the Stititunga. A rare and very shy antelope that resides and walks on the floating papyrus of the Okavango.  However as expected and around almost every corner were the crystal clear waters of the Okavango Delta. 4×4 driving heaven but with a twist. As it was impossible to tell how deep the crossings were we would have to walk each beforehand. Not a difficult task but with croc and hippo abundant in the area it wasn’t long before the “spirit fingers” were out. Our sign that we had reached the limits of our bravery/stupidity.  As the day wore on we became cockier in our ability to read the depth and would often cross a stretch of water without first walking it. However, one such crossing had water lilies, a tell tale sign that this was going to be a deep crossing. Having had a few beers at lunch the boys were all game to give it a crack. As it was Spermies turn to walk this one he hopped off the roof but before he even got to the water the “spirit fingers” were out. Not even the jeers from his mates could convince him to test these waters. As I was driving and knew should anything happen blame would be placed firmly on my shoulders at the next fines meeting, I decided to test walk it myself. I must add that at half way and with my testies already sunken below the water my nerves faltered and the spirit fingers again came out and I decided that it wouldn’t get much deeper than I already was.  With the thumbs up from everyone I slipped the trusty rusty in to low range and locked all three diffs. Everything went “swimmingly” until just beyond where I had stopped we slipped into a sunken hole. With water above our top spotties and weeds under our tyres it wasn’t long before we lost traction and ultimately momentum.  A bad combination when driving through water. Now stranded in the middle and with water cascading in all the doors, frantic stations where hit. Both Jason and Cory were both off the roof in a flash (crocs and hippos well forgotten) and it was quickly decided that reversing back out on our tracks would be the better option. Dan was not even able to offer any help as the pressure on the doors was such that he could even open it to get out and let’s face this man was not going to be able to climb out of the window . With the extra heave from the boys on the front bar and a sumos wrestlers face from Jason it was long before we regained traction and pulled the old girl out of her would be watery grave.  Credit must be given to these vehicles as even after that little swim the old cruiser was still running as well as ever.

Having frayed our nerves a little we decided to head back to camp, unpack the car and dry the inside as best we could. This ended up taking quite a few hours and dusk was setting when we finished. That said the old girl was still pretty wet and we knew that the wet towel smell was soon to come. After a shower, shit and no shave the rest of the night was spent reliving the day around a roaring camp fire. True to nature these stories became more embellished as the night wore on and the beers flowed…..So take everything above with a pinch of salt.

The next day we were up before dawn and breaking camp, as we were leaving Xakanaxa and heading to South Gate campsite for our last night in Moremi. Once again game viewing was the order of the day and so when we had booked our camp spot we headed out to explore this part of the park. With almost every traveling regaling stories of cat they had seen just the previous day we where sure luck was on our side and today we would find these beasts. Not to be. Once again we were only treated to plains game and so a little disappointed we decided to do what every true Aussie does… head back to camp, have a few beers and play a little cricket. With spirits up again and dinner to be made, Cory and Jason headed off in search of wood. However it wasn’t long before both scuttled back into camp looking a little flustered but really chuffed with themselves. Whilst collecting wood they had come within 15 metres of a bull elephant, more than a little annoyed that they where pilfering wood where he was feeding. An experience I’m sure neither of them will forget. That said, at the same time Dan was chasing ellies through the brush, trying to get some close up film of his own.

After a great dinner of Boerewors, Mash and chuckuluka, both myself and Dan decided to call it a night. The other two were keen to finish off a movie they had started a few days before.  However, it wasn’t long before the boys were scrambling in search of the slingshot and ball bearings as a large pack of hyenas had descended into camp, with one standing only a metre on the other side of the camp fire.  When all were severely run out of camp in a shower of ball bearings and calm restored all four of us crept off to bed and listened to the herds of elephants cracking branches and trees all around the camp.

After driving from Victoria Falls, and retrieving the illegal immigrants from Zambia, the WNT traversed the country side, and descended upon Kasane in Botswana, situated on the banks of the busting Chobe River. The Chobe runs from west to east and is mainly fed by the Linyati River and the Caprivi Strip marshes. To accentuate the water in the area, the mighty Zambezi River funnels a large amount of rainfall from Central Africa, particularly Angola, in a south-easterly direction, and combines with the Chobe just near where Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe all meet. The Zambezi swells further from the added flood waters, and heaves downstream to eventually surge over Victoria Falls.

Kasane is one of the major towns in the district, and boasts the major resorts and lodges. The resorts are orientated around the river, with cocktail lounges and major dining rooms offering spectacular views of the brimming watercourse, and associated wildlife.

Dan and Cory were pretty much residing on Struggle Street from the previous night’s antics, and were coherent and collected on rare occasions. To get the ball rolling, Flaggon and Spermie headed to Choppies to restock the stores, whilst Splats and I searched the town for unleaded fuel, two stroke engine oil, and diesel. Not as easy as it sounds. The fuel supply to Kasane seemed to often falter, and we had to wait a day to get our diesel fill. To try and get a few of the remaining gallons, Splats and I tried our hand in Kazangula, the Zimbabwean/Botswana border town, who were rumoured to have a supply. When we arrived we were confronted by a log jam of diesel vehicles all jockeying for a bowser, however the main offender was a Chinese fuel tanker, filling the massive tank from a standard bowser. The Chinaman took the entire remaining diesel, and left the locals and us, high and dry. The boat we were using to cruise the waters Zambezi was stored at Trish and Geoff’s, who are also one of the co-owners like Jim’s family. Boat collected, fuel stored and booze iced, Jim headed up stream to the Chobe Safari Lodge, whilst I collected the ill-pair from the supermarket, and selected a camp site in the lodge’s grounds. We hadn’t slept in our Roof Top Tents since the Serengeti, and we were all excited to return to our own bedrooms.

The next day broke and all were up early and keen for a great day on the water. We grabbed the rods, passports, and esky’s and headed downstream of the Chobe, to clear the Botswana and Namibian border controls, then upstream of the Zambezi, via the Kasai channel. I couldn’t help but marvel at how much the water had risen since our last expedition to the region. The village where we bought fresh bait last time was all but completely submerged, with only a few fishermen left, and a smattering of disheveled huts and drying implements strewn around.

We bought the few Bulldogs (small fish caught in the river) and a couple of small Tiger fish, and set about finding a good place to drift our baits. Another beer down, then most of an esky had been consumed, when Dan’s rod began screaming. The sound of a ratchet chattering brings on a wave of adrenalin, and the whole boat began to rock and cradle with excitement. Dan struck the rod, and struck again, and began to slowly reclaim his line from the fish. Dan doesn’t state fishing in his list of hobbies, and he (and us) were elated to find he caught a 3.5 to 3.75kg Tiger fish. What a cracker – we were so excited and so decided to stop for lunch and a celebratory beer.

Hotdogs were on the menu – and they didn’t last long. A single line left in the water snared a Barbell, and Cory ensured it wasn’t to get away. The biggest barbell we had caught to date, even bigger than the fish we caught in Cahora Bassa. With Barbell slime all over the boat, we set off for another session of hard tt a Barbell, and Cory ensured higer fishing (sitting in a chair, drinking beer and drifting down river). After an hour or two, my line seemed to jag onto a log in the river. With the boat rapidly drifting away, and only having a small spool of on the reel, I was worried that the log would strip the new line Jim had suggested we put on that morning. The boys retrieved the other lines, as we motored up to the log to try and reclaim the line. Then we realized the log was now swimming toward us, and then passed the boat. The log was a fish, and the boat again jumped into attack positions. The fight was underway, and eventually the fish was brought to within visual depth. Jim and I both exclaimed at the same time that the fish was worth keeping, and we made special care to ensure he made the boat. What a cracker!! The fish was a monster and the biggest I had caught by far. Late in the afternoon, after we returned to shore, we agreed with the staff of the lodge, that if we could borrow their kitchen scales, they could have a fish. My fish weighed in at 6.5kg’s (0.5kg added on due to water loss through the afternoon). It’s one of the bigger fish pulled from the river in recent times, and most of the workers knew about the fish before too long.

With only two fish bagged, and three for the day, we showered and headed to the cocktail bar, and buffet in the lodge to celebrate Jim’s birthday. Impala chops, kudu lasagna, and stuffed duck were a few of the dishes on offer – with homemade banana ice-cream for desert. We all had to sleep on our backs due to swollen bellies that night.

Day two broke and we were all up earlier than previous, keen to land a monster Tiger. Unfortunalty the Tiger were not really on the bite, although Jim managed to land a smaller specimen, the larger fish of yesterday remained untroubled. That night we were invited by Trish and Geoff to dinner at the Old (New) House, along with their daughter Bronwyn. After a long day on the water, a decent meal and a few ales, we were soon off and didn’t trouble any more barmen that night.

The next day were broke camp, and were off to Ihaha Rest Camp, Chobe National Park, for two nights on the banks of the Chobe again. We drove the game trails by day, sighting Elephant, Impala, Bushbuck, Lechwe, Chobe Bush Buck and other plains game, by night we lounged in our camp and relaxed. The second night was another fines meeting, with Spermie back at the helm. Fortunately for us, Tim and Tiff Holden donated pink champagne left over from their wedding, so we reasoned that there would be no better time than Fines Meeting to enjoy this fine beverage. The meeting was another cracker, and another bottle of whisky was knocked over before bed called.

With another hangover somehow managed and forgotten we ventured deeper into the bush, aiming for Savuti, more particularly, to see the Savuti Channel (River) flowing for the first time in 25 years. The road to Savuti was like a forgotten back track on Fraser Island. The sand was like talc, and reduced our gear to first and speed to a crawl. As we neared the camp site, and were about to cross the channel, we saw the largest elephant to date. The bull was huge, and dwarfed our car – what a sight! We found our camp and continued on toward the south, in search of the Bushmen Paintings. We left the car in the capable hands of a herd of elephant, and climbed to the paintings, and then to the summit to watch the elephant, and take in the panoramic scenes. The next day we are off Xakanaxa (Kack-a-naka), to enjoy the lush forest, and move deeper into the Okavango Delta, but that story is for another day. Till next time, Jason.