Malawi Gold

Travelling through the lush Malawian highlands of Mzuzu, the collective stomachs began to growl, so the hunt was on to replenish our fridge and pantry Waeco. We finally stumbled across a reasonable supermarket, which to our astonishment and open excitement sold BILTONG!!! Eggs, mince, sauce, fresh warm bread, booze and biltong were purchased; cold items stowed in the Waeco; hawkers rapping on the windows and tugging clothing; biltong piece in mouth and hand; ignition key turned – and bang! The hawkers ran from the car and dove into bushes, children disappeared into folds of their mothers dresses, and a light smoke began to waft from the bonnet. Another overcharged battery. Luckily the auxiliary battery was able to provide the cranking amps, so we lucky to be able to resume the sleepless trek south, to Nkhata Bay.

Lake Malawi is a massive natural lake, serving as the eastern border between Malawi and Tanzania. Beautiful tropical fish are in abundance, however so is the Bilharzias worm. One can swim freely in the water, but a dose of worming tablets are mandatory as the minute parasite will almost certainly invade the skin by end of days swimming. Our choice of accommodation was Myoka Village. A quant native bungalow style hotel and bar, at the end of a medium level 4×4 track, and right on the banks of the lake. Virtually a swim-in-swim-out arrangement for a majority of the rooms, Myoka has all three attributes required for a great holiday destination: Night Life – fantastic basic bar with ice cold beer, right on the water, with resident locals Skywaker, Gift, Special, and Firestick, all following the Rasta way. Tranquility – nothing but the lapping waters of the lake to keep one awake during siesta. Company – chilled and relaxed travelers mingling with locals running on Malawi time (I’m sure it’s in the same timezone as Fiji and Byron Bay).

A little fishing was embarked with a local guide and fishing poles. The Butterfish was the target species, however the strange contraption resembling rabbit-ear TV antennae was used to catch. We were fishing in about 70 meters of water for this allusive delicacy, with each ear sprouting a line and hook, and a weight attached at the junction. It looked more like a divining rod actually. We caught no fish, however the deckhand caught two. Malawi 2, Aus 0.

A spot of cliff-jumping was the ordered remedy for another hangover, and Gift the nominated skipper for the journey around the headland to a point nearby. Whilst I’m sure the outboard was capable of greater things, Gift kept the speed to almost an idle – Malawi time again. But the cliff-jumping was worth waiting for.

We’ve had a blast with loads of other travelers we’ve met, Rob and Judith (Holland), The Icelandic’s (Iceland), Dom and Henry (UK), Scott (Aus), and Ben (UK) just to name a few.

To continue the mechanical woes – We have decided to completely replace the alternator, and having engaged a local auto-electrician, await the eventual install. I’m not sure how to calculate Malawi-time, however I think it depends on how hard the wind blows, and in what direction. We have waited three days for the correct alternator to show up, and still have had no luck. But Myoka Village is not a bad place to be stuck.

UPDATE!!!

The alternator has arrived, is installed, and we are on our way to Mozambique.  We’ll drive straight to the border crossing near Tete and just sleep in the car.  Then we’ll head off in the morning across the border to Tete and up to Cahora Bassa for 5 days.

Till laters my-bro – Cool Ronnings Mon, Jas